Engines1

As with most things related to the pleasure marine industry, they do not get used as much as they should.  This certainly applies to the fuel in your tank.  For most boat owners the fuel sits in the tank month after month.  This fuel degrades over time and at some point gets to the point where it starts to cost you real time and money.  So what to do?  We have heard all sorts of claims about fuel polishing.  This is the trick of pulling your fuel from the tank by means of an electric fuel pump.  This fuel is then run through a filter or series of filters and then back to the tank.

Well I’m here to tell you that method IS NOT fuel polishing.  (more…)

With winter fast approaching it is important to speak with your fuel supplier about the additive package they use in your winter fuel.  We have seen problems in the past with additive packages.  The problem seems to be more pronounced when your engines are the common rail type.  These engines use extreme pressure on the supply fuel side prior to the injectors.  In several cases (found in the mining community) there has been a thick brown residue on the injector tips and on the piston crown.  In all of these known cases the engine suffered serious power loss and in some instances downtime.  This resulted in large repair bills.  We do however know that on vehicles where we have installed the fuel conditioner the engine suffered no injector related problems or downtime.  To learn more go to http://www.cleanfuelmanagement.com/ and click on mining.  To learn more about our complete fuel catalyst go to www.cleanfuelmanagement.com/p_fcatalyst.html.

Tim

Engines1

Portsmouth, VA

The absorption charging cycle of most battery chargers requires a little bit of study and preparation to get right.  Spending time with the system and logging the charge rate during absorption will preserve the life of your batteries.  Not paying attention to this cycle will cause certain and premature battery failure.  Energy1 Batteries has added a white paper to the website.  This document outlines the absorption charge cycle and how to properly adjust based on battery type and depth of discharge.  In any case it is a must read for anyone using batteries to supply house power, which is most of us.

The links are:

White Paper – Click Here

Energy1 Battery Website – Click Here

Maintenance is key with any product.  Reviewing the operator’s manual and following through with periodic maintenance will help you get the life and performance out of any product you own.  Why do so many people neglect this simple operation?The picture shows the flame arrestor screen on a gasoline generator.  The Operator’s Manual provides suggestions to remove and clean this screen every 50 hours and is detailed in the manual in the Maintenance Schedule Checklist.  Every checkpoint provides a security and precursor to failure.  By checking the list and performing the functions you could prevent catastrophic failure and huge expenses.  The photo shows an air inlet screen/flame arrestor from a gas generator.  The cleaning required would cost an owner about $6.00 and a few minutes.  Not cleaning this screen may cost the owner $7000.00 or more.  Why?  Because this small part was neglected, the restriction started a chain of failures which resulted in total generator engine failure.  Consequential failures began long ago and started with the clogged screen.  This led to a failure with the PCV valve.  This allowed oil vapor to get introduced into the intake manifold.  Oil vapor caused erroneous or false reading sent from the O2 sensores.  This same oil vapor eventually clogged or severely restricted the MAP sensor which further deteriorated the information sent to the engine control module.  The engine control module is responsible for adjustments made on the fly whith timing, fuel delivery and response time.  After many hours of run time and neglect the engine finally failed.

Oil was pulled past the rings and entered into the combustion chamber where it was burned producing a heavy smoke from the exhaust.  The spark plugs soon fouled in all four cylinders.  The pistons had raw oil laying on top as seen by a bore scope.  The valves also had a heavy soot covering them preventing the engine from breathing properly.

By the way, the technician was called in because the generator would not stay running.  This was due to low oil level in the crankcase causing loss of oil pressure. So, get the operator’s manual.  Keep it handy.  Refer to the manual often.  This is cheap money and time to spend in order to avoid huge expenses.

Manuals are available at little or no cost to you.  Send us an email with your name, Westerbeke model, and engine serial number and we will send you, via email, the manual for your product if available.  Send your email to: info@engines1.com.

Engines1
3504 Shipwright St.
Portsmouth, VA 23703
800-548-6252
www.engines1.com
info@engines1.com

Have you ever wondered why we neglect our fuel as much as we do?  Do you worry about the long term effects of your fuel just sitting around?  Well, there is finally an affordable solution to keep your fuel in it’s optimum condition.
Introducing the all new Smart FPS-DX-D from Algae-X.  This compact 12 or 24 Volt DC system will keep your fuel pristine.  Dramatically reduce or eliminate filter clogging.  It is fitted with an automatic programmable timer that turns the system on and off at your discretion.  Set it and Forget it.  The fail-safes will protect you from high suction and high pressure in case of a loss of suction or clogged filter.  This system will pump up to 80 gallons per hour.  The filter options include a 10 micron fine filter and 15 micron water block filter.  That is perfect for a 500 gallon tank or less.  Even twin tanks can be easily fitted with this system by installing a couple of three way valves or fuel manifolds.  So if you are thinking about your fuel then STOP! We have a low cost solution that works.
For more information go to Engines1.com or Cleanfuelmanagement.com.  Once you have downloaded the Smart FPS-DX specs, operator manual and read through the data, give me a call and I will help you solve this ever growing issue…….bad fuel.

To save time call 1-800-548-6252 and ask for Tim.
Or submit a request for a quote.
Happy Boating

My generator will not stay running.

It is bound to happen sooner or later.  We leave the office a bit early on Friday to head to our boat.  We board the boat and begin preperation for a weekend cruise. After we unwrap, open up and finish stowing our gear.  You press the button to start the genset.  And then it happens, as soon as we let go of the on switch or preheat switch the genset shuts down.  Panic sets in and we presume the worst.  A quick check of the generator reveals nothing out of the ordinary.  It is now about 3:00 pm and we start dialing for help.  PLEASE get my generator running.  As we panic to get the generator running you quickly realize that you have no parts for repairs if you actually find the problem.  To make matters worse we don’t even have our parts book onboard to locate the proper part number from a local dealer.  As we go dialing for help we find that there are others who have beaten us to the punch and if you are lucky you will get a call before closing.  Let us look about these problems in reverse.

First keep a set of manuals onboard the boat.  You should have an owner manual, parts manual, and technical manual.  Most technicians do not carry manuals for every generator manufacturer they service on their service truck. Save yourself time and money by having these available for the tech.  Second, many items can be repaired in a do it yourself manner with the proper information.  Again saving you time and money.

Then there is the problem of spare parts.  Most of us keep filters, impellers, belts and zincs aboard our boats.  However if you spend a few minutes with a reputable dealer or distributor you can quickly assemble a list of parts that are known to fail and have them aboard in the event of a break down.  Simple information about your cruising habits, ports of call, and even destination countries can make a world of difference in deciding about which spares to keep aboard. 

Now is the issue at hand, the broken generator.  You have to get it repaired or the guests that will be meeting you in a few hours will be sorely disappointed that their weekend stay will be tied to a dock instead of cruising to a favorite cove.  Be methodical in your approach.  Think back to the last time the generator ran as it was supposed to run.  Did you perform any repairs?  Did you make any changes?  Did you have the genset serviced?  Was anything added to the boat that required crawling around the generator to install?  Has this problem been creeping up on you and not getting attention?  These tidbits will expedite any resolution.  Next try to narrow the results down between fuel and engine electrical (presuming that the unit will not start).  Every diesel needs three things to run: fuel, air, and compression.  Every gas genset needs these plus spark.  In your case you can keep the genset running by holding the preheat/on switch so we have these things.  Open your manual to get an overview of the fuel system.  Locate the pieces that deliver fuel to the engine.  Use the manual to determine any nuances in the products fuel system like pressure switches or special valves.  First things first-check for fuel.  Crack a fuel line after the primary fuel pump and press the button.  Does fuel spurt out?  Or just dribble?  Move on the the injectors or carburetor.  Crack an injector line to see if fuel comes out when cranking.  Remove the flame arrestor to see if fuel squirs when you work the throttle.  By now you should know if your problem is fuel related.  We have checked the fuel flow through the system.

Next comes the dreaded electrical system.  Generators have safety switches.  Typically generators are protected from overheating, low oil pressure, lack of raw water flow and overspeed of the engine.  All of these safeties can be bypassed for testing.  Learn the location.  Use the manual to use the proper bypass procedure.  These are generally cheap enough to keep as spares.  The safety switches also control the fuel solenoid.  Bottom line is to have the manual open to the electrical drawing.  Follow the lines to be sure you have voltage where it needs to be.  Look for loose or disconnected wires.  Check switches, relays, and solenoids to confirm operation and function.  Replace defective parts.  Then replace your spares.

By getting information about the problem, what led up to the failure, what manuals and spares are aboard you can in most cases quickly resolve any issue with your generator.  And remember to follow safety precautions.  No loose clothing, keep tools used in electrical repair away from grounds.  Stay clear of rotating parts.  And by all means try to get a certified technician from a reputable company to respond and help resolve the issue.  Have you exact model and serial number ready when you make you call.  Boating is about being on the water.  Down machinery prevents our therapy.  Stay on top of your service requirements and develop a relationship with a reputable dealer.  Your life will be much more stress free.

To get help on Westerbeke Products use these resources:
Engines1 Website
Engines1 Knowledgebase
Westerbeke Website

Happy Boating!

Did you know, your diesel fuel is spoiling while you sleep?

Diesel fuel quality issues are creating a heightened level of concern for consumers worldwide.Fuel deterioration causes clogged filters, loss of engine power, and worst of all, engine failure. By educating yourself, and preparing your equipment for this inevitable failure you can avoid emergency problems and insure a continuous flow of clean, clear and optimal diesel fuel to your equipment.
Before we deal with the solution we must first understand the problem. Diesel fuel is an organic compound that is refined from crude oil. Through the refining process the resulting fuel molecules become polarized and unstable. We will deal with polarization and stability one by one.

The magnetic effect of the polarized molecules allows these to recombine or attach to one another ending up, over time, in a cluster of what we commonly refer to as sludge. Sludge is the extreme effect of these clusters. At the point that you can see the formations it is too late. Your engine pulls this sludge into the fuel system, the filter traps it in the filter media, and when the sludge covers enough of the filter media to prevent fuel flow, the engine shuts down. You can change the filter and wait for the next event or begin a proactive approach, through annual tank cleaning or permanent automated fuel polishing systems, that deal with the root cause of this polarization. Look for a future article on “How Magnetic Fuel Conditioning Works”.
Secondly is the issue of stability. During refinement an oxygen molecule is stripped from the hydrocarbon chain of the fuel molecule. Needing to fill that void is the desire of the fuel molecule. Since refining uses high pressure steam in most cases the simplest way to fill this void is to grab an oxygen molecule from the steam during the cracking process. Unfortunately there are also a couple of hydrogen molecules attached to the water molecule that fuel just grabbed. In fuel speak this is known as entrained or emulsified water and is carried with the fuel for the rest of it’s life. In most cases this is not seriously harmful on it’s own but when left to rest this water combined with other free water will create a recipe for disaster. Because, when your engine is running the fuel is drawn into the system and is separated at the filter. The level continues to elevate until the high water alarm sounds or until the filter flow is blocked and fuel ceases to flow. In extreme cases when using substandard filters the water continues through the system thereby damaging injection pumps and injectors.

Getting the water, particulate (dirt) and sludge out of your fuel prior to use by the engine is, and must be, your prime focus. Engines1 sells, services and installs systems that clean your fuel. These systems circulate fuel outside of the engine fuel system. Our fuel polishing systems provide primary filtration, magnetic fuel conditioning, and secondary filtration. They utilize a water removal filter on the inlet side and in most cases a water block filter on the discharge side. Go to our Cleanfuelmanagement site to see and learn more.

Before And After Pictures of Diesel Fuel After Polishing

In an email from the Puma Ocean Racing team dated March 2009, Sean wrote:
I have been meaning to touch base with you over the past couple weeks but have failed to do so. The team is currently in Boston after the completion of Leg 6 from Rio last weekend. The start of Leg 7 to Ireland is on Saturday May 16th. We have been greatly satisfied with the performance of the batteries. For the most part everything has exceeded expectations. I will give you a quick break down in terms of how we used the three sets to date. We did have an issue with our “second set” of batteries when our battery “combiner” shorted. Those batteries were replaced at the same time the combiner was so its hard to tell what their status was. But I have a feeling that we may have damaged one of the M12-210s.

Each “set” of batteries consisted of 2 x G-2200 and 4 x M12-210s

Set 1: 03/08 - 12/08 - Installed during construction of the boat - Sea trials - Initial training - Bermuda Race - Primary training - Trans-Atlantic - Leg 1 (Alicante to Capetown) - Leg 2 ( Capetown to Kochi)

Set 2: 12/08 - 03/09 - Leg 3 (Kochi to Singapore) - Leg 4 (Singapore to China) - Leg 5 (China to Rio) Set 3: 03-09 - Present - Leg 6 (Rio to Boston)

There are a couple of factors that effect fuel burn rates on these boats: power consumption, main engine vs. generator, alternators and batteries. All teams have taken different approaches to in trying to come up with the best solution. We do not know the exact numbers for all the teams but we do know that we burn a lot less fuel than all the other teams. We are certain that our Energy1 Batteries have contributed to this. This has allowed us to carry less fuel than all the other teams and has been a big advantage to us. We are a very pleased with their performance and are thrilled that you were willing to supply them to us. As we near the completion of the event I would like the ability to talk to you guys to see if there is anything else we can learn from all of this. I know that if I was involved in another syndicate I would certainly be looking to use NorthStar/Energy1 batteries again and I am sure other teams would be as well. If there is anything we can answer for you at this end please contact me. Regards, Sean PUMA Ocean Racing

This sample was taken from a tank that supplies a standby generator set for critical backup.  The tank is a 2000 gallon below ground tank.  The company stated that they currently had a maintenance company who was taking care of the fuel.  The maintenance company would sample the tank periodically, recommend a treatment program, then add a series of chemicals to the stored fuel that was supposed to bring the fuel back to life and give the company uninterrupted backup of the generator plant.  When enough water and sludge built up at the tank bottom the maintenance company would come in and pump the tank bottom and discard the sludge.  What we have learned:

No two tanks are the same.  The things that affect one tank may not affect the other.  The things that you cannot see will hurt you and your power plant.  Simple chemical insertions will not repair poor fuel quality.  Proper fuel polishing requires an understanding of how the problem occurs.

Sampling the fuel:

It is critical to sample a tank prior to a tank cleaning/polishing operation.  This is done to minimize filter consumption and a tech’s time on site.  Sampling is typically done off of the tank bottom by a bacon bomb or tube from a sampling pump.  The required quantity for lab testing is 16 ounces.  If the tank is 10,000 gallons or larger then a mid-tank sample is also required.  An alternative method to use prior to the lab is a visual test.  When sampling, fill a pint size Mason jar and allow a few minutes for the fuel to settle.  This will give you a better idea through a visual exam what you are dealing with and how to start.  A second option (not to replace the sampling procedure) is to run a Veeder Root report.  This will show the amount of fuel in the tank and most importantly the amount of free water at the tank bottom.

Why is this important?

When servicing a tank it is critical to remove as much sludge and water as possible prior to the filtration process.  Not only will this save filters and time on site in the competitive market of tank cleaning but also save the tank from pitting and potentially leaking as a result of the acidic properties of this sludge.  This process also allows you to carry enough empty containers so you can transport and discard the tank bottom sludge without stopping to procure extra sludge vessels.  The ultimate goal in tank cleaning/polishing is to return the customer’s fuel to clear, bright, and spec condition.  To do this efficiently you must plan for the job.  Removing the tank bottom sludge is your first step in staying on budget.  You want to be sure that when you switch the machine to the filtering process you get the maximum life from a filter and avoid premature filter stoppage.  This cuts costs and reduces stress on the machine.

To learn how to solve this and other fuel related items visit:  www.Cleanfuelmanagement.com

Some helpful tips to help when purchasing a short block or long block replacement engine.
    
   When it comes time to replace your worn or broken gasoline engine there are a few things to keep in mind.  If you get these right then swimming through the endless supply of internet suppliers who just don’t know will become much simpler.  You also will find that the change of the engine parts will go smoother because you bought the same model you removed.
   For example; the GM 350 cid or 5.7 liter engine went through several changes that could have a dramatic impact on a change.  In the early days the engines were equipped with valve covers that had perimeter bolts and a 2 piece rear seal.  The heads came in a couple of varieties as well.  And the intake was held on with 12 bolts (6 per side) that all went in at the same angle.  Today the valve covers are held down with center bolts, the engine has a 1 piece rear seal, the intake uses 8 bolts (4 per side) and these bolts go virtually straight down.
   This is important because all of the parts that may need to be changed will not bolt on if you have selected the wrong replacement.  Parts such as the intake, flywheel, fuel pump, water pump, harmonic balancer, brackets and more.  So,in short, make sure you have some very basic information about your engine and the change will go much smoother and in the long run cost you less money.

   For starters have these basic items at your fingertips.

1. Year Model
   As with everything built in yearly productions the boat’s year may not match the engine’s year.  So there are differences that will help narrow your search in getting the proper replacement for your engine.
2. Engine Size
   The engine size or cubic inch displacement.
3. Horsepower
   The advertised horsepower.
4. What Company Built the Engine
   The marinization company, i.e. Mercruiser, Crusader, PCM, Indmar, Marine Power and such.

For more information visit our website at www.engines1.com or our knowledgebase at www.knowledgebase.engines1.com.