Engines1

May 19, 2009

Why Is My Diesel Fuel Going Bad?

Filed under: Diesel Fuel Maintenance — Tim Walters @ 3:37 pm

Did you know, your diesel fuel is spoiling while you sleep?

Diesel fuel quality issues are creating a heightened level of concern for consumers worldwide.Fuel deterioration causes clogged filters, loss of engine power, and worst of all, engine failure. By educating yourself, and preparing your equipment for this inevitable failure you can avoid emergency problems and insure a continuous flow of clean, clear and optimal diesel fuel to your equipment.Clogged fuel filter with sludge and algae
Before we deal with the solution we must first understand the problem. Diesel fuel is an organic compound that is refined from crude oil. Through the refining process the resulting fuel molecules become polarized and unstable. We will deal with polarization and stability one by one.

The magnetic effect of the polarized molecules allows these to recombine or attach to one another ending up, over time, in a cluster of what we commonly refer to as sludge. Sludge is the extreme effect of these clusters. At the point that you can see the formations it is too late. Your engine pulls this sludge into the fuel system, the filter traps it in the filter media, and when the sludge covers enough of the filter media to prevent fuel flow, the engine shuts down. You can change the filter and wait for the next event or begin a proactive approach, through annual tank cleaning or permanent automated fuel polishing systems, that deal with the root cause of this polarization. Look for a future article on “How Magnetic Fuel Conditioning Works”.
Secondly is the issue of stability. During refinement an oxygen molecule is stripped from the hydrocarbon chain of the fuel molecule. Needing to fill that void is the desire of the fuel molecule. Since refining uses high pressure steam in most cases the simplest way to fill this void is to grab an oxygen molecule from the steam during the cracking process. Unfortunately there are also a couple of hydrogen molecules attached to the water molecule that fuel just grabbed. In fuel speak this is known as entrained or emulsified water and is carried with the fuel for the rest of it’s life. In most cases this is not seriously harmful on it’s own but when left to rest this water combined with other free water will create a recipe for disaster. Because, when your engine is running the fuel is drawn into the system and is separated at the filter. The level continues to elevate until the high water alarm sounds or until the filter flow is blocked and fuel ceases to flow. In extreme cases when using substandard filters the water continues through the system thereby damaging injection pumps and injectors.

Getting the water, particulate (dirt) and sludge out of your fuel prior to use by the engine is, and must be, your prime focus. Engines1 sells, services and installs systems that clean your fuel. These systems circulate fuel outside of the engine fuel system. Our fuel polishing systems provide primary filtration, magnetic fuel conditioning, and secondary filtration. They utilize a water removal filter on the inlet side and in most cases a water block filter on the discharge side. Go to our Cleanfuelmanagement site to see and learn more.

clean fuel from dirty fuel

Before And After Pictures of Diesel Fuel After Polishing

May 13, 2009

Puma Ocean Racing about Energy1 AGM Batteries

Filed under: Batteries & Electrical — Tim Walters @ 11:57 am

In an email from the Puma Ocean Racing team dated March 2009, Sean wrote:Energy1 AGM Battery Group Photo
I have been meaning to touch base with you over the past couple weeks but have failed to do so. The team is currently in Boston after the completion of Leg 6 from Rio last weekend. The start of Leg 7 to Ireland is on Saturday May 16th. We have been greatly satisfied with the performance of the batteries. For the most part everything has exceeded expectations. I will give you a quick break down in terms of how we used the three sets to date. We did have an issue with our “second set” of batteries when our battery “combiner” shorted. Those batteries were replaced at the same time the combiner was so its hard to tell what their status was. But I have a feeling that we may have damaged one of the M12-210s.

Each “set” of batteries consisted of 2 x G-2200 and 4 x M12-210s

Set 1: 03/08 - 12/08 - Installed during construction of the boat - Sea trials - Initial training - Bermuda Race - Primary training - Trans-Atlantic - Leg 1 (Alicante to Capetown) - Leg 2 ( Capetown to Kochi)

Set 2: 12/08 - 03/09 - Leg 3 (Kochi to Singapore) - Leg 4 (Singapore to China) - Leg 5 (China to Rio) Set 3: 03-09 - Present - Leg 6 (Rio to Boston)

There are a couple of factors that effect fuel burn rates on these boats: power consumption, main engine vs. generator, alternators and batteries. All teams have taken different approaches to in trying to come up with the best solution. We do not know the exact numbers for all the teams but we do know that we burn a lot less fuel than all the other teams. We are certain that our Energy1 Batteries have contributed to this. This has allowed us to carry less fuel than all the other teams and has been a big advantage to us. We are a very pleased with their performance and are thrilled that you were willing to supply them to us. As we near the completion of the event I would like the ability to talk to you guys to see if there is anything else we can learn from all of this. I know that if I was involved in another syndicate I would certainly be looking to use NorthStar/Energy1 batteries again and I am sure other teams would be as well. If there is anything we can answer for you at this end please contact me. Regards, Sean PUMA Ocean Racing

May 12, 2009

Is Your Fuel Maintained?

Filed under: Diesel Fuel Maintenance — Tim Walters @ 2:08 pm

Picture of sludge and dirt in fuelThis sample was taken from a tank that supplies a standby generator set for critical backup.  The tank is a 2000 gallon below ground tank.  The company stated that they currently had a maintenance company who was taking care of the fuel.  The maintenance company would sample the tank periodically, recommend a treatment program, then add a series of chemicals to the stored fuel that was supposed to bring the fuel back to life and give the company uninterrupted backup of the generator plant.  When enough water and sludge built up at the tank bottom the maintenance company would come in and pump the tank bottom and discard the sludge.  What we have learned:

No two tanks are the same.  The things that affect one tank may not affect the other.  The things that you cannot see will hurt you and your power plant.  Simple chemical insertions will not repair poor fuel quality.  Proper fuel polishing requires an understanding of how the problem occurs.

Sampling the fuel:

It is critical to sample a tank prior to a tank cleaning/polishing operation.  This is done to minimize filter consumption and a tech’s time on site.  Sampling is typically done off of the tank bottom by a bacon bomb or tube from a sampling pump.  The required quantity for lab testing is 16 ounces.  If the tank is 10,000 gallons or larger then a mid-tank sample is also required.  An alternative method to use prior to the lab is a visual test.  When sampling, fill a pint size Mason jar and allow a few minutes for the fuel to settle.  This will give you a better idea through a visual exam what you are dealing with and how to start.  A second option (not to replace the sampling procedure) is to run a Veeder Root report.  This will show the amount of fuel in the tank and most importantly the amount of free water at the tank bottom.

Why is this important?

When servicing a tank it is critical to remove as much sludge and water as possible prior to the filtration process.  Not only will this save filters and time on site in the competitive market of tank cleaning but also save the tank from pitting and potentially leaking as a result of the acidic properties of this sludge.  This process also allows you to carry enough empty containers so you can transport and discard the tank bottom sludge without stopping to procure extra sludge vessels.  The ultimate goal in tank cleaning/polishing is to return the customer’s fuel to clear, bright, and spec condition.  To do this efficiently you must plan for the job.  Removing the tank bottom sludge is your first step in staying on budget.  You want to be sure that when you switch the machine to the filtering process you get the maximum life from a filter and avoid premature filter stoppage.  This cuts costs and reduces stress on the machine.

 

To learn how to solve this and other fuel related items visit:  www.Cleanfuelmanagement.com

What Engine Do I Have?

Filed under: Gasoline Engines — Tim Walters @ 12:12 pm

Some helpful tips to help when purchasing a short block or long block replacement engine.
    
   When it comes time to replace your worn or broken gasoline engine there are a few things to keep in mind.  If you get these right then swimming through the endless supply of internet suppliers who just don’t know will become much simpler.  You also will find that the change of the engine parts will go smoother because you bought the same model you removed.
   For example; the GM 350 cid or 5.7 liter engine went through several changes that could have a dramatic impact on a change.  In the early days the engines were equipped with valve covers that had perimeter bolts and a 2 piece rear seal.  The heads came in a couple of varieties as well.  And the intake was held on with 12 bolts (6 per side) that all went in at the same angle.  Today the valve covers are held down with center bolts, the engine has a 1 piece rear seal, the intake uses 8 bolts (4 per side) and these bolts go virtually straight down.
   This is important because all of the parts that may need to be changed will not bolt on if you have selected the wrong replacement.  Parts such as the intake, flywheel, fuel pump, water pump, harmonic balancer, brackets and more.  So,in short, make sure you have some very basic information about your engine and the change will go much smoother and in the long run cost you less money.

   For starters have these basic items at your fingertips.

  1. Year Model
    As with everything built in yearly productions the boat’s year may not match the engine’s year.  So there are differences that will help narrow your search in getting the proper replacement for your engine.
  2. Engine Size
    The engine size or cubic inch displacement.
  3. Horsepower
    The advertised horsepower.
  4. What Company Built the Engine
    The marinization company, i.e. Mercruiser, Crusader, PCM, Indmar, Marine Power and such.

For more information visit our website at www.engines1.com or our knowledgebase at www.knowledgebase.engines1.com.

Powered by WordPress